The botanical resins Workshop Series

Workshop 2:
preparing resins for herbal crafting

Download Your preparing resins for herbal crafting workbook Below:

Lesson 1:
Core Aspects of resins & gums

Lesson 2:
preparing resins for herbal crafting

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Lesson 3:
how to make a pine resin salve

the botanical resins & gums course

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    33 replies to "Preparing Resins for Herbal Crafting"

    • Kristie

      Wounded trees heal us! This is all so fascinating! I love your teaching style. Thanks to you, I’ll be looking out for resins in my area. I’m so glad you put this out there.

    • Linda

      Fantastic workshop. At the end of #2 we are told to gather some supplies, and where we can buy some resin. You spoke so fast I can’t understand the recommendation. Could you please give me the website again? Thank you.

    • elizabeth hill

      I have collected fur balsam and white cedar resin from my trees by my house. Not knowing what to do, I put both in olive oil. The cedar was fairly fine to begin with and disolved. The fur balsam was in chunks and is still soaking in the oil after a year. It smells great, but is it still good? Thanks for sharing all this wonderful info.

    • Michelle

      I can’t wait to get into this course. I love your classes. I hope we can find some supplies here in Australia, there are few places but with CoVid, supplies have been a little difficult to get. Are you shipping to Australia? If so, could you let me know roughly what shipping would be please? I will be signing up for the course.

      • Hi Michelle. I’m happy to hear you’ll be joining me! And yes, we’re currently shipping to Australia. Usually shipping costs tend to be around $25 or so.

    • Berje

      Throughly enjoyed this video Evan, thank you. The presentation was excellent both with information offered and the demonstration(timing) thank you. Who knew there was so much to learn. I am excited to begin the Botanical Resins and Gums course.

    • Leah Roberts

      Thank you again! I really appreciate the information on ethically sourcing the materials for making resin products! Looking forward to the 3rd video.

    • Liz

      When drying your own resins you mentioned that it can take weeks/months. Where do you place them? I’m thinking that by just putting them on an open shelf they will collect dust, or doesn’t that matter? Or do you cover them with a breathable cloth?

      • Hi Liz. Keeping resins out in the open air is best for curing/drying. I always cure mine on a shelf or even put a pan on top of a stack of books on a shelf so it is closer to the shelf above. This prevents less dust from gathering. You could carefully cover it with a cloth too, so long as you find a way to prevent the cloth from touching the resin and make sure enough air is getting to it. The more air, the faster the cure.

    • Jessica

      This has been so interesting! Just wanted to share what I’ve learned and ask a question. I started making ponderosa pine Resin oil some years ago, and instead of powdered I use whole. I have a dedicated crock pot. This oil I put in ALL salve’s, in 12 years I’ve never seen a batch go bad… Five years might be the age of my oldest salve. So I’m wondering, my oil, when it sits it settles out and I get a gold colored, more viscous material at the bottom and above a darker (though still gold tinted) less viscous material. I always shake my jar to recombine before making, but I am wondering, what is the more golden stuff?

      Recently I collected resin from the native choke cherry, I haven’t processed it yet, any thoughts on that tree and it’s resin?
      Thank you for all you offer to the world!

      • Hi Jessica. I think I get what you’re saying. So after an oil infusion that you leave out for some period of time, you end up with a separation that is a dark layer at the bottom, a lighter golden layer on top of that, and then your oil above that? Is that correct? Pine resin is a full oleo-resin with no gum content. So that golden layer above your dissolved resin layer is not gum, but likely just a particularly less dense portion of your resin that happens to have a lighter color. Separation is common with many extractions and different constituents are more molecularly dense than others.

        In terms of Choke Cherry, what you are harvesting is a gum and not a resin. It likely doesn’t have much aroma, if any, and is not going to be very medicinal, if at all. Most fruit trees produce a gum, like cherry trees which can exude quite a bit.

        I hope this is helpful.

    • Stacey Massey

      I’m loving this information, thank you so much! Do you have a good resource that gives the medicinal properties of resins and gums? And I would love to know how to tell when you forage something if it is resin or gum and how you would use it. I found two different resins off of trees in my apartment complex yesterday. One was from a Deodar Cedar and I’m not sure about the other one yet.

      • Hi Stacey, there are a few resin profiles on our blog at, or you can check out my Materia Aromatic Ebook. Also, look out for an email from me tomorrow with something exciting!

    • Karen

      Very interesting. I usually do not open these face book lessons but felt this was worth the risk. I am so glad I did! Thank you for the last 2 lessons. I am looking forward to the last lesson and to start making my own! I live on the east coast but sure the trees here are good as well. Any warnings on trees to stay away from would be helpful. Thank you!

    • Sheri

      Website for pine resin pretty please. Thanks a bunch. Also – I see your pine resin comes from Red Pine and Jack Pine. Are they the most medicinal or the most readily available or the most sustainably grown? What about Ponderosa Pine or Lodge Pole Pine or even Long Leaf Pine. I’d really love to learn more. So many different pines. Do they all have the similar chemical makeups to have similarly therapeutic properties? Thank you so much for sharing this. When can we expect to see the next two videos. Love the info. Great thanks!

      • Hi Sheri, there are many medicinal Pine’s as there are over 100 species around the world. Pinon and Lodge Pole are great as well. Red and Jack are just what our source turned out to be from our neighbors in Canada. They are all similar in their benefits and aromas but are all unique at the same time. Most will make a great salve. You can find ours at

        Also, the 3rd and final lesson comes out tomorrow! So stay tuned!

    • Carol Lafon

      When is the 3rd video going yo be ready?

    • Esther

      I really am enjoying your videos. I have made my own pinon pine salve and just love it.
      Looking forward to the next video! Thanks for doing this.

    • Victoria

      Where did you get the giant mortar and pestle? I don’t have a granite type one, but I bet that is the ticket grinding many items for incense!

      • I can’t remember where I got this one. I’ve had it for years. The best types for resin are made of stone, marble or granite. Avoid wood or metal ones.

    • keri

      What is the site to purchase the pine resin? Couldn’t make it out. thank you for this workshop!

    • Melissa

      Mahalo for sharing this series! It’s very informative and helpful for beginners interested in crafting holisticly with resins and gums. Most plants and trees in hawaii have more of a latex type resin on them, very difficult to work with but extremely healing in poultices.

      • Hi Melissa. Yes, I would imagine that the native Pine trees on the islands could have a nice resin. I’ve not looked closeup for them but I’d bet.

    • Sharon St. Mary

      Thank you for doing this series – very informative. Do you have a list, or a reference, where a person can find a listing of what resin species are classified as resins, gums, oleo- resins and oleo-resin gums?

    • alesja

      Very interesting! Thank you! 🙂

    • mina

      thank you so much again for this series videos and lessons , just wanna know how is the proper way to get the resins from the trees without harming them ? also what equipment can we use for that purpose !

      • The simplest way is to harvest dried resins that are on the surface of the tree’s trunk. Depending on the species, often this will suffice and give you enough to work with.

    • Denise

      Love the second video! Thank you!! My question is this-it is extremely hot here in the Midwest right now and the Redon I have access to is very, very sticky, can I freeze it, will it dry out the resin as well. My second question is have you used propolis in the same manner?

      • Can I ask what kind of resin you have? And when was it harvested, how long has it been cured? Was it fully dried and less sticky before the weather turned hot? If it is only sticky due to the weather, then yes, you could probably freeze it and process it down just fine. But if you let it warm up too much, the powder could just melt back down to a big sticky clump again, so you’d have to work fast. And I’ve not used propolis in herbal crafting but I’ve heard of it being done. Best of luck!

    • Paulette

      thanks so much for this informative workshop series. I love all this information!!! I have a question. Is it not harmful for a tree to take off the resins??? Does the tree not need it anymore???

      • Hi Paulette, great question. Though resin is not necessarily the “blood” of a tree, it acts like blood in a sense that it creates a sort of scab over a wound. But it usually continues to exude resin over time in the same area, even if a wound is sealed off from the outside world. If you take some resin off of the top of a wound, it will usually be replaced by new resin.

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